These days turned out nothing like I had planned……….

Well the last few months have gone nothing like I planned that’s for sure!

 

From laying all my $ into an absolute bomb of a car that ended up costing me more then I spent, so later took a trip to the wreckers………….To Having my new Turbo custom board stolen from out the front of my house. Add in a break up with a long time girlfriend and not having any money to attend the Queensland State titles, the Port Mac contest or later Chile and I just got destroyed by the worst flu a few days ago………your starting to get the idea? I find the lyrics to that song “these days turned out nothing like I had planned” coming into my head a lot.

 

After taking a loan and finding a car I could trust i’m now down on the central coast at the entrance after dropping in to Port Mac to help Kingy with a few tweaks to his training program through my Bodyboard and Surfer training company ‘Boogerbod.”

I really enjoy helping other riders and at times like this it’s a real break from the downs of the last few months.

 

Dbah March. Photo Jye McDonald

The central coast is a really nice area, with breaks open to South and East swells and beachies and reefs. I’m feeling really good in my riding despite all the downs and looking forward to doing a 4-week trip to the pacific to shoot something really different with my friend Edward Saltau in June.

 

As I write this the new, new board from Turbo has arrived (the one that was meant to arrive 6 weeks ago but was stolen) .It looks a treat, concaves, shallow channels and smaller pins on the crescent tail and a tweak of the stringer positions. I check my computer and find Emerald Bodyboard Shop has just sponsored me, along with Freedom fins and Axiom Clothing. My flu seems to be on the way out and there’s a sweet 3ft right hand wedge just out the front estuary mouth starting to look fun without a soul out……….

 

Maybe this is what life is. How much we try to plan, sometimes we are at the whim of things much larger then us.

 

It’s all a matter of perspective.

 

“The tragedy of life doesn’t lie in not reaching your goal.

The tragedy lies in having no goals to reach.”

~ Benjamin Mays

 

Keep riding.

Stay stoked.

 

Bmac

 

 

 

 

The Year That Was and The Year I Hope For…..

Well is been a long time since I last posted on here. Much has happened and much really hasn’t. I’m the same person, still moving in the same direction and hoping to achieve the same things even after what I felt was a year of setbacks………

The pacific

I’ve been back down the deep south for 6 months, learnt to snowboard, gotten into photography, video and editing (all with a lighter wallet but some great results) and put out some workout videos for bodyboarders “Boogerbod” on Vimeo and Youtube with a new riding podcast and another on the way in late 2012. I have continued to compete with another NZ tour champ title under my belt along with unsatisfying results on the Australian Tour. It has definantly been some ups and downs!

Evening paddle out.

After leaving the dirty South I have been living the best life in the pacific for the last 4 weeks, surfing 4 hours a day, living off fresh local fruit that grows where ever you ride along with fresh fish and most relaxed lifestyle you could hope to live. You have to love the pacific, cruising on scooters, tanning, eating great food and surfing in powerful, warm waves day in and day out. It can only bring your riding up to another level. With a 2hours tattoo to signify my new commitment, self belief and hopes for good fortune I feel ready to give 2012 the best I have.

My new Tattoo for inspiration in 2012

With some time living in Australia on the Gold Coast ahead of me and competing full time on their national tour along with hopes to be in South America for some of the GSS and GQS contests in May/June I hope to take my riding and competition experience to a place it has never gone.

Evening delight- photo Stork

With the year ahead and the disappointments of the year that has been behind me and left to the past I can only hope to have learnt my lessons, done my homework and entered the mindset where you are willing to work as hard as you have to in order to end up where you dreamed you would. It’s the realisation that you have been operating at 50% of what you are capable of and deciding that you only get one shot, so make it count. Get up early, surf when you cant be bothered and demand the most out of every line, move and turn. The results can only be good…………

Hack- Photo Stork

So I hope 2012 brings you everything you hoped it would. And hopefully not the end of the world as ‘predicted’!

Peace.

Evening Training Session

Days off the Radar………………..

Well with Terrible performance in Peru and a similar in Chile I pretty much nearly gave up competitive bodyboarding from June onwards…………

In the cold winter tunnel

Ive done other things, snowboarded, moved back to Dunedin NZ (and 7 degree water temps) and surfed some great uncrowded waves in a beautiful country im lucky to be from.

Learning to snowboard

I found my love for just riding my board day in and day out and just getting better and better in my riding for the pure sake of bodyboarding, and it has lead me to levels of riding I have never known…………

Gringo 2011

Filming and GoPro have kept me busy with a few great and different podcasts on the way intergrating GoPro pole, head, board and land footage with things looking all wrapped up mid Sept.

With a new mindset im off to the Knights contest in Sept and Aussie Nats in October, while in the interim I get motivated watching the epicness that is the mexico contest……..

A view 5 mins down the road........

So keep riding and enjoying your riding for the the thrill and the pure reason you got into it in the first place and your life will always be anything but the norm. Because who wants to be normal……………………….

more cold water barrel times

Bad times in Margaret river

Comp day Trials for Box

Well after a hard day of very inconsistent waves, strong onshore winds I have been knocked out of the Trials to round two of the World Tour Box comp. After a few injuries, and a lot of driving from Perth (3+ hours each way) its been a blow I could have done without.

Surfing away the heartbreak in WA

I guess for once I actually “choked”. That feeling where the pressure gets to you and makes you feel like you body just wont move in time, you feel disconnected from the situation. Its a hard thing to admit, but sometimes its the pressure we create for ourselves that does us in, not that around us. With the great support crew of my gorgeous girlfriend Rio and close family members I have been able to see this for the opportunity to learn that it was. So thanks guys, you were really there when I needed you!

Hacking up a storm in rage in WA

So i’m stepping back. Spending a good few weeks surfing day in and day out, reminding myself I can surf just as well going left or right in order to build the confidence I need for Peru and Chile. I’m amped to be down in Margs for the start of the Top 24 round, and though it will hurt there is some incredible riding to be seen and motivation to be gained…………..

The Final Countdown! To the Box Trials :( 2/3/2011

The Final Countdown! To the Box Trials 2/3/2011

Well its 8 days until the Trials to make it into the main event of the 2011 Grand Slam Box Contest, in Margeret River with $50,000 USD across the 32 Competitors up for grabs. With Plenty of driving each week from Perth (3hours each way) and spending 3-4 days a week in the Prevelly area my preparation has been going pretty well. Punching out 4-5hour days while down South and training hard both in the pool and on land when back in Perth.

The trails will be held at Gas Bay (see below photo) a fun reef/beachy which on its day can be very high performance, and when not can be a very tricky wee wave to surf. Like all contests you need the set waves, luck and the head to stay cool and in control when others are trying to work you over.

Reverse at gas Bay (photo Andre Apel)

The trials will allow 7-8 guys throughout many of the World best riders into the main event out at box with the top 24. Its a hard task and with a wave like the Box waiting to be surfed for those who get through its going to be a shit fight to make it!

The Box ready and waiting (Photo Andre Apel)

During a free surf a few days ago I narrowly missed out on breaking my foot after hitting an invert out of a 6ft bowl at ‘Cobblestones’ a punchy right hander alot like Aussie Pipe. I hit it super wide after feeling like I was being a pussy in the first hour of my surf. I Hit it, people screamed and hooted, “this is good” I think, I land “this is good” I think again. Then I see an exposed rock shelf and no where to go. “this is bad” I think. I cant punch through the back as there is just too much water so I drive up over the reef lifting the nose of my board. Its hits the reef and drives over, then SLAM! My left leg hits a big rock, the impact just blows me away. I feel like my leg has been hit by a truck, and it has. My lower part of my suit in tatters, my fin ripped open on the top. I glide into shore in some of the worst pain I have been in for a long, long time. Crawling up the beach I get the fin off covered in blood and just lye on the rocks. Its about half an hour before I can put weight on it and with the assistance of my fabulous girlfriend I hobble back to the car to spend the day with my leg up…………..

As the days have gone by I have been able to weight it more and more despite some heavy bruising and with 4days down South to do my final prep for the Trials this coming week i’m hoping the ‘Nurophen Advance’ is as good as they say it is……………………

The road to round two of the IBA world Tour……….

17th March 2011 (3.5 weeks until the Box contest)

Well im officially in Western Australia loving the sun, 25 degree waters and epic waves. This place is ground hog day. Everyday 30+ degrees and sunny with hardly a cloud in the sky! living in the Desert aint so bad!

Gas Bay pumping! Photo Andre Apel

Walking straight into swell after there has been a good few months of flatness has been epic with a lot of good times going down at the Box, Gas bay and various others spots around Margaret River and Dunsborough.

Im currently in Perth and doing the hard 3 hour commute a few days a week to get waves when the charts are looking good. After the Box comp im off to Chile and Peru for 4 weeks then back in WA and looking to move into the Margaret River area. Its amazing here, reefs everywhere, a slab in every bay and the quality of waves I have been dreaming of for ages.

Gas beachy Backflip. Photo andre Apel

The epic failures in Hawaii are slowly leaving my mind and I try to use them to motivate me to work harder in WA “the land of the right hander” and actually probably “the land of the reef!” Running and stretching when there is no surf and watching the odd vid to stay amped keeps me motivated for sure!

As always I have to plug those that motivated me to chase my dreams like Kevin at Isolated Shop, Hayden Parsons from Isomag, my Mother and her partner for helping out in support both financially and mentally, Paul at Seventh Wave, Gregg at Turbo for keeping me focused after a bad performance in Hawaii and my gorgeous girlfriend who’s belief in me keeps me pushing myself and my riding to new heights. These people are great for our sport so support those that want to see it become all it can be in and out of your own country!

Cheers

BMac

Feb 17th 2011 was A day I would rather forget

Today I had was was probably my worst performance in a heat of my life. I felt off the pace, I let myself get psyched out, I had no faith in myself. All at the biggest bodyboarding contest in the world and in front of the world, cameras and all…………………..

Its a strange to feeling to fail so spectacularly. Like an out of body experience, you cant believe it really happened to you. I remember the last minute, no sets, I needed an 8 point ride, Brian Wise is going nuts yelling like a hyped up American on ‘Monster’ Energy drink

And I just wished in that last minute I was somewhere else, and then time decides to slow down just so you will never forget this moment………

Bad wipeouts, mis-timing of sections and losing rails. It had it all

And all your left with is a sense of needing to walk away from it for a while. Just some time away from the water and the stress of competition in order to find why you really ride and how you intend to move forward from the bottom, the bottom where you were left on your hands and knees wishing it happened a different way.

To all those that had faith I salute you, to all those that laid down hard cash I salute you. As for a while here i’m left waiting to have some faith in myself………….

Like all terrible things, you have a choice to lay down and die or fight tooth and nail to find a reason, something to drive you towards great things. and I know that day is coming, but for now i’m left hollow inside and wishing I was somewhere else…..

Peace
Bmac

Feb 15 and 16th (official waiting period has begun!!)

Well its been two days with some super average waves. 2ft and super north with a call going up that it could get bigger and go more west tomorrow. Here’s hoping!!

The 15th was spent trying not to use my right foot due to an infection, but today (the 16th) its come done a lot and i’m able to get a flipper on!! Had a quick surf in morning at 2 ft Off the Wall and another surf at 2ft Rocky Point with way too many surfers out! a great little rip bowl was on offer with fast, oncoming reverse sections and it was great to get in a semi fun surf before the contest looks set to begin tomorrow.

I’m feeling good, fit and glad to get down to competition, but as always nervous about what the waves will be like and whether I have done enough at this point. A definantly should have done more grovelling, that’s for sure!!

I’m set to roll in at heat 5 in round 3, around 2.40pmish US time.
Thanks to all those for their help and support,
Its time to ride.

14th Feb 2011 (1 day to go)

14th Feb 2011 (1 day to go)

Waves have been okay today, but sadly I have this strange thing on my right big toe (like a bite, or an infection or something). It hurts SO much to put flippers on and even when walking!!  We went to surf Kei Ki for some shots and could hardly get my fins on! Man, this has been a testing trip, that’s for sure!!

God knows what’s going on!! I have a stash of antibiotics and am hitting them and decided not to surf this afternoon as the rubbing seems to make it swell! Finger crossed!!

Oh and yesterday was probably the worst day EVA! Had like the worst surfs ever, just crowded and very average waves, went back in the afternoon and I locked the bike I have been loaned by NZ’er Gareth Sheehan. Sadly it was a  D-lock. The key snapped after the surf so I had to leave the bike and walk home barefoot 3kms. We got a hack saw and spent 30mins hack sawing the fence to get the bike out!! Dumb!!

With one day to go, im hoping for some luck, a drastic change in waves and a new toe by the morn……………..

11th Feb 2011/ 12th Feb 2011/ 13thFeb 2011 (2 days to go)

 

The north shore has been stuck in a rut with straight north and north east swell which has caused Pipe, Off the wall and backdoor to pretty much disappear over the last few days to be replaced by 4-6ft Pupa kea Beach Park. There have been a few good waves on offer, but there are plenty of funny waves going hollow and fat. With it being the weekend the crowds have been in full swing despite the lack of quality waves. It’s been a bit of a routine these last few days with training in the morning, surfing after, the rest of the day spent relaxing and enjoying the holiday lifestyle that the north shore has to offer. A run in the evening along the bike trails and it’s all just a waiting game. A few of the Turbo boys hit the trials at Sandy beach today in some testing conditions, good luck to them all! With the waiting period about to begin and the North Shore acting very different from its powerful self things look interesting with one day to go……….